Greece Entering The Labyrinth Tour Planning Guide

B. Skyros

Introduction

Skyros is famous both as the last home of Theseus and as the hiding-place for Achilles on the eve of the Trojan War. Its indigenous wild ponies are thought by some to be the same breed as those depicted on the Parthenon frieze. In 476 BCE, the Athenian statesman Cimon unburied the giant "bones of Theseus" on Skyros and brought them back to Attica at a time when the cult of Theseus as the patron hero of Athens was being further solidified.

Recommended Activities

Skyros Town sits on the side of a bluff that rises sharply from the sea. According to myth, King Lykomedes pushed Theseus to his death from its summit. The Kastro -- a Venetian fortress -- is on the acropolis today, where once stood the ancient fortifications said to have housed Achilles. It is reached through a tunnel underneath the monastery Moni Agio Georgio, which has an impressive representation of St. George slaying the dragon.

The British poet Rupert Brooke died off Skyros on his way to fight in Gallipoli during World War I. The controversial 1930 memorial statue of a naked man stands at the northern edge of the town. The Archaeological Museum is just below the Brooke statue (Tues. - Sun., 8:30 am - pm; 2 Euros). Nearby is the impressive private Faltaits Museum (Daily 10 am - Noon and 5:30 - 8 pm, 2 Euros), devoted to the folklore and mythology of the island. A guidebook recommends a morning tour of the museum with Niko Sikkes (5 Euros).

Other Activities

Nikos Sikkes (22220 92158) also leads walking tours around Skyros Town (10-15 Euros).

Palamari, northwest of Hora, was the site of an early Bronze Age settlement.

Rupert Brooke's Grave is in a grove inland from Tris Boukes Bay in the south of the island.

Skyros Travel can arrange a day trip to the Gerania sea caves on the southeast coast (35 Euros).

Transportation

There is a regular ferry service between Kymi on the island of Evia and Skyros. The ferry makes daily crossings during the week and two crossings on Saturdays and Sundays (1 3/4 hours; 8.30 Euros). I think the ferry lands at Lynaria, on the opposite side of the island from Skyros Town. A bridge connects Evia to the mainland.

Cars can be rented from Theseus Rentals (2222091459) or Pegasus Rentals (2222092123) in Skyros Town.

Skyros Airport has domestic flights to Athens.

Miscellaneous

Skyros Travel (22220 91600) is a helpful travel agency located on the main street in Skyros Town. They can arrange day trips, accommodations, and car rentals, and may be able to provide cross-island transportation, if necessary.

Comments

I recommend a two-or-three-day Skyros visit at some point during our tour. To my mind, it fits in well near the beginning of the trip, though it could be placed elsewhere as well. There are no direct ferry routes to the Cyclades or Crete from Skyros, and the schedules are such that a land-based stop should probably both precede and follow any stay on Skyros.

C. Delphi

Introduction

We should spend at least two full days in Delphi. It worked well last time at the beginning of the trip but could also serve as a destination point after our return from Crete.

Recommended Activities

Between exploring the Sanctuary of Apollo and the lower Sanctuary of Athena, and visiting the excellent museum, there's enough for the better part of a day here in an organized group tour. The 9 Euro ticket is good for admission both to the main sanctuary and to the museum.

The Corycian Cave should not be a full-group activity, given its demands. This might serve as an excellent optional full-day activity for the second day in Delphi, however.

Comments

In this first suggested itinerary, Delphi is placed immediately before our trip to the islands.

Note that there are other possibilities here, including driving over the bridge to the Peloponnesian Peninsula and Naflpion, either near the beginning or near the end of the itinerary. If we choose that option we might want to consider timing things so to open up a day trip on the Dhiakofto Railway or even to add Olympia to the itinerary.

We could also add a fourth night in Delphi, and use it as a base for a day trip northward to Meteora or elsewhere.

Although I enjoyed our stops at Osios Loukos and Livadhia on the road to Delphi in 2008, I have not included those in this itinerary. We may want to have a stop or two on the way to Delphi, though we should figure out from which direction we will be approaching Delphi before we explore the options here. I have already listed Rhamnous and Marathon as possible stopping points if we travel from Skyros to Delphi and do not have a chance to see those two Eastern Attica sites before we catch the ferry to Skyros.

D. Tinos

Introduction

Tinos remains a distinctly Greek island with a profound connection to the Goddess theme. In an almost obligatory reference, guidebooks describe it as the "Lourdes of Greece." Its Church of Panagia Evangelistria ("Our Lady of Good Tidings") is the nation's most important modern pilgrimage site. It's also next door to both Mykonos and Delos, and, as a pilgrimage destination, is very well-integrated into the Cycladic ferry scheme.

According to tradition, a local nun named Pelagia received visions from the Virgin Mary in 1822 just as the Greek War of Independence began instructing her as to the location of a buried icon. Acting on the vision, she helped to uncover a millennium-old Byzantine icon, the Megalochari ("the Great Joy"), a talisman that is credited by many with great healing powers. The icon is housed today inside the church, buried beneath a mass of votive offerings of gold, silver and other precious metal. Almost any day one can witness pilgrims, particularly older women, crawling on their knees from the port to the church.

Although St. Paul and icons of St Anne nursing Mary already promise to be integrated into our trip, here is another opportunity to explore the complex connections between Christianity and earlier faith traditions.

Recommended Activities

The church should be one focus of our visit. But Tinos is also characterized as one of the best islands in the Cyclades for walking.

A number of the recommended walks center around Exobourgo mountain, a large hill 10 kilometres from Tinos town. Crowned by the remains of a Venetian castle, it is circled by a number of stone villages with winding streets.

Many ferries run daily between Tinos and Mykonos daily (30 minutes). There also are special summer excursions to both Mykonos and Tinos. The most well-established one departs from the old pier in Tinos Harbour at 10 am (Tues-Sunday) and returns to Tinos in the early evening after visiting both islands (25 Euros). This provides for 2 1/2 hours on Delos and for 4 on Mykonos.

Other Activities

Tinos does not have quite the same beaches as Mykonos but there still are excellent options. A number of these can be reached easily from Hora. At uncrowded Porto, you can wave across to those packed by the shoreline on Mykonos.

Sister Pelagia's embalmed head is on store at Kechrovouniou, one of the largest convents in Greece. The chest in which it is held can be viewed.

The small Archaeological Museum (Tues.-Sun: 8:30-3 pm -- 2 Euros) includes a sundial from the nearby Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite but should be listed as an optional activity at best.

Transportation

Frequent buses service the inland villages. The bus station is located by the harbour, next to the National Bank of Greece (Phone: 22830/22-440).

Miscellaneous

Useful Links

www.windmillstravel.com : Windmills Travel is highlighted in more than one guidebook as a model agency. It is located on Kionion 2, halfway between the new ferry dock and the central waterfront (Phone: 22830-23398). It may now be organizing inland walking tours.

Things To Do List

Check to see whether the "Tinos Sky" excursion boat ride to Delos and Mykonos is running in early June. If not, determine the most convenient way to get to both Delos and Mykonos from Tinos.

E. Naxos

Introduction

Naxos is the largest and most fertile of the Cycladic islands. It is also Ariadne's Isle, the place where, according to myth, the Cretan princess was abandoned by Theseus before being rescued by Dionysus. Settled in 3000 BCE, its architecture includes Mycenaean ruins, Byzantine monasteries and Venetian towers.

Recommended Activities

Naxos Town is an obvious base. Its signature landmark is the marble Portara gateway on the unfinished sixth-century Temple of Apollo, located on the very islet where Theseus is said to have left Ariadne.

The Archaeological Museum (8:30 am - 3 pm, Tues. - Sun.; 3 Euros) is in the Kastro, housed in the former Jesuit school whose pupils included a young Nikos Kazantzakis. Within the Mitropolis Museum (8:30 am - 3 pm; Free) are below-ground fragments of the Mycenaean city of the 13th-to-11th centuries BCE.

At Apollonas, 49 kilometers northeast of Naxos Town, one of the island's most-visited sites is the marble quarry that include a large unfinished kouros from the sixth century, including Chalki (20 minutes from Naxos Town) and Apeirathos (25 kilometers from Naxos Town) are frequently highlighted as of particular note. Christian Ucke's Walking Tours On Naxos is available from island bookstores.

The Panagia Drosiani, 2.5 kilometers north of Chalki, is one of Greece's oldest and most revered churches.

About 1.5 kilometers south of Sangri are the ruins of the Temple of Demeter (8:30 am - 3 pm Tues.-Sun.) in an impressive hill-top setting. There is also a small site museum.

The Aria Spring and Cave of Zeus are located at the base of a cliff on the slopes of Mt. Zeus some 2 kilometers outside of Filoti. Mt. Zeus itself is the highest mountain in the Cyclades; it takes some 3 hours to climb to its summit.

Other Activities

In mythological tradition, Theseus stopped in at Delos on his return voyage back to Athens; dedicated the image of Aphrodite he had received from Ariadne to the goddess on the island; and danced with his companions the Crane Dance in imitation of the circling passages within the Cretan Labyrinth. Both the House of Dionysus and the House of Masks include later mosaics of the wine god.

Transportation

Naxos has frequent ferry connections with Piraeus (5 hours; 23.10 Euros; approximately 6 daily) and with the other Cycladic islands as well. There is twice-daily hydrofoil service from Piraeus (3 1/4 hours; 37 Euros). Ferries (7 1/2 hours; 19.50 Euros) and catamarans (3 1/4 hours; 38.80 Euros) to Heraklion also operate quite regularly.

Naxos is served by a small airport just outside Naxos Town; the daily 45-minute Olympic Airlines flight to Athens costs 56 Euros.

Miscellaneous

Naxos Tours is a travel agent recommended in the guide literature. They have an excellent web-site that advertises their Day Tours.

Comments

The Chateau Zevgoli is recommended as an atmospheric hotel situated in the heart of old Naxos.

F. Archanes

Introduction

I enjoyed our stay in Heraklion in 2008 but recognize that most students did not share in this opinion. An alternative base for eastern Crete might be the village of Archanes, located some 16 kilometers in-land from Crete's capital at the base of Mount Juktas. It is a quiet site that is conveniently-situated; offers a taste of Cretan town life; and is of significant historical importance.

Recommended Activities

Archanes was once home to a Minoan palace, though few traces remain that are not contained in the village's fine archaeological museum. Other important Minoan sites, however, do rest near-by. Archanes was also headquarters for the Nazis during their World War II occupation of Crete.

Phourni, 1.5 kilometers to the southwest, has a fine necropolis that combines Minoan graves with Mycenaean-era tholos tombs (8:30 am - 2:30 pm, Tues. - Sun.; Free). It is the most extensive Minoan cemetery extant on Crete.

5 kilometers southwest of Archanes, above the town dump, is the sanctuary of Anemospilia. Here in 1979 a shrine was discovered that seemed to indicate evidence of human sacrifice circa 1700 BCE, a sensational find that rocked the world of Minoan archaeology.

And at the top of Mount Juktas, there is a Minoan peak sanctuary dating from the early second millennium BCE. The view from here is also spectacular.

Mount Juktas itself was long described by locals at the burial place of Zeus himself, a claim that served as the most immediate source of the mainland stereotype that "all Cretans are liars."

Other Activities

Archanes could serve as a base for day-trips both north and south. The obvious northward destinations are Knossos and Herakleion. I would recommend combining a visit to Knossos and the Archaeological Museum of Herakleion into the same trip, with the palace scheduled for the early morning and the museum immediately afterwards.

The Palace of Knossos is located five miles south of Iraklion. The Archaeological Museum contains the world's finest collection of Minoan artifacts, including the famed Snake Goddess (T-Sun: 8am - 8 pm; M: 12:30 p.m. - 8 p.m.). There is a combined ticket for 10 Euros that gains one access to both the museum and the Palace of Knossos.

A great way to extend a southwards trip into a very full day-trip would be to follow an extended lunch break in Herakleion with brief visits to Amnisos and the Cave of Eileithyia. Amnisos was the port for Knossos. Here, according to tradition, Theseus arrived from Athens and here he dove into the harbour to retrieve a magic ring. The small island of Dia can be seen from the shore. An alternate mythic story-line identifies Dia as the place of Ariadne's abandonment and death. The Cave of Eileithyia is just up the road from Amnisos. It, like Amnisos, is mentioned by Homer. A worship site since Neolithic times, the small cave was one of the most powerful sites we visited during the Goddesses and Heroines Tour.

Archanes is also a potential gateway to sites on the south side of the island, including Gortyn, Phaestos and Matala. I recommend combining exploration of local Archanes spots with a trip to Gortyn, in preference to attempting to cram too much into the itinerary. The Palace of Phaestos is, however, commonly identified as the second-most important archaeological site on Crete and I would have no objection to fitting it into a day trip.

Gortyn, some 25 kilometers southwest of Archanes, does have some connection to the Labyrinth myth, in that its central plane tree was reputed to be the spot at which Zeus raped Europa after transporting her in his bull form from the Phoenician shore. For all Greeks, plane trees are considered sacred and seen as symbols of life, perhaps because they will only grow by springs. Crete is home to the only 29 known evergreen plane trees in the world, of which the Gortyn plane is one.

Gortyn became the most important city in Crete after the Dorian invasion. It later became the Roman capital of their province of Cyrenaica, despite the fact that it had once provided refuge to Hannibal. Today Gortyn probably is best remembered for its printed law code of the fifth century BCE that remains carved into a wall in the Odeion.

Comments

The Orestes Rent Rooms (751-619) are identified by one guide book as a simple but serviceable accommodations in Archanes. Some other possibilities are identified in the Accommodation section of the Travels in Time web-site.

G. Kato Zakros

Introduction

The Palace of Zakros, located on the far southeastern shore of Crete, was the smallest of Crete's four major palatial complexes. It is in a remote and romantic site that remains quite undisturbed by tourist development, given the restrictions imposed the by government's Archaeology and Antiquities Department.

Recommended Activities

Kato (or Lower) Zakros is best reached via an 8 kilometer walk from Upper Zakros, itself the site of a Minoan settlement. The Gorge of the Dead, named after the Minoan funereal caves lining the enclosed valley, is the final stage of the E4 trans-European footpath and is clearly marked from Zakros village.

The walk is only moderately challenging, but I would still see it as an option rather than as a full-group requirement, with reluctant hikers and suitcases alike being dumped at our accommodations down below while those who wished to walk the gorge being dropped off at Zakros.

Ancient Zakros is at the end of the trail and is open daily (8 am - 5 pm; 3 Euros). A guide would not be needed for the hike, though it might be nice to have one along anyways.

Comments

Tavernas and simple accommodations line the pebbled beach next to the ruins. Of these, Stella's Traditional Apartments strikes me as of particular note, though there are also other options that should provide a blissful ocean-side respite. We may need to divide ourselves between two spots.

H. Hania

Introduction

Hania is well worth a second visit. It was, I thought, one of the best stops on our 2008 tour. The night-time ferry to Piraeus may again be convenient, despite the trouble experienced last time around.

Recommended Activities

One nice walk follows the sea wall out to the Venetian lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor. The Archaeological Museum (Euros 5; 8:30 am - 3 pm T - Sun.) is located in the 16th century Church of San Francisco.

Other Activities

We may want to fit in one or two interesting stops on our way westward to Hania from far eastern Crete.

The Byzantine church of Panayia Kira (daily 8:30 am - 5:30 pm; 3 Euros) is located 1 kilometer outside of Kritsa. Its frescoes depicting the life of Anne and the early life of the Virgin Mary are the most famous in Crete.

Another possibility may be the Melidhoni Cave (April-November daily, 9 am -7 pm; 3 Euros), 5 kilometers northeast of Perama. According to myth, this was home to Talos, the bronze giant who was given as a present by Zeus to his bride Europa. Talos served as a guardian of Crete, striding around the island throwing giant boulders at would-be intruders. Jason and his crew were threatened by Talos, though the monster was brought down with the help of Medea. The impressive cavern was also the scene of a Turkish atrocity during the Greek War of Independence; the deaths of the some 350 Greeks locked-up in the cave in 1824 are still commemorated with an altar and ossuary. Guidebooks recommend the back road from Herakleion to Perama as an introduction to rural Crete.

The Monastery of Arkadhi, approximately 25 kilometers southeast of Rethymnon, in the Psiloritis foothills, stands as a continuing monument to the martyrs of the independence struggle.

There are sunset cruises from the harbour at Hania by the M/S Irini (28210 52001) for 8 Euros.

Samaria Gorge (Euros 5; 6 am - 3 pm), some 46 kilometers from Hania, remains a possibility for another optional day trip. The longest ravine in Europe, the gorge was made a national park in 1962. The path drops 1,000 metres in its first two kilometers. At the famed Iron Gates, the width of the canyon narrows to three meters. At 18 kilometers long, this is a strenuous day-long hike. It also has become almost an obligatory rite of passage for the foreign tourist. Even the earliest bus from Hania to the top of the gorge is crowded and during the summer more than a thousand people a day do the hike.

Samaria Gorge is not the only gorge in this section of Crete. The Imbros Gorge (Euros 2) offers an 8 kilometer hike and is much less visited than its more famous counterpart. Access is from the village of Imbros with an end point at Hora Skafion. The Happy Walker organizes treks through the gorge but it certainly can be completed independently as well.

I. Nafplion: Gateway To The Argolid

Introduction

Nafplion, the one-time capital of Greece, is regarded by many as the nation's most pleasant town. It serves as an excellent base for exploring the Argolid.

Recommended Activities

Nafplion itself can perhaps best be enjoyed by self-directed student walking rather than by organized tour. Two large fortifications, the Acronafplia and the Palamidi, dominate the skyline. There is no charge for the former. The latter ( 3 Euros; M-F 8 am- 7 pm and Sat-Sun 8 am-3 pm) can be reached either by taxi or by ascending the some 800 steps to its entrance. The well-regarded Nafplion Archaeological Museum (2 Euros; Tues.-Sun. 8:30 am- 1pm) is located on Plateia Snytagma in the old Venetian arsenal.

There are several other sites we could visit close to Nafplion, whether on the way elsewhere or as part of an organized expedition. Tiryns, with the Cyclopean walls that dwarf even those of Mycenae, is but 5 kilometers outside of Nafplion (usually open in the Summer 8 am-7 pm). If possible, we should visit Mycenae during the early morning to avoid the tour bus rush. Bring a flashlight to explore the cistern.

The Heraion of Perachora is located 32 kilometers northeast of Corinth, just across the gulf (8 am - 7 pm). Only foundations and column stumps remain of this ancient and key sanctuary to Hera. We could perhaps schedule this as a side trip on the way to Nafplion from Piraeus.

Other Activities

Nafplion hosts a classical music festival in late May and early June featuring Greek and international performers. Evening concerts are held at the Palamidi. The Castel da Mar rests some 400 meters offshore in Nafplion's harbour. Small boats ferry tourists back and forth. The best swimming is at Arvanitia Beach beneath the Palamidi. There are changing rooms and chairs.

Transportation

The Flying Dolphin offers hydrofoil service from Nafplion to Marina Zea, Piraeus (Mon.-Sat.). It usually leaves Nafplion for Athens in the early morning. The hydrofoil makes a number of stops and takes almost as long as the bus. For information on fares and the changing schedule, go to http://www.dolphins.gr/ or call 210/453-6107; 210/419-9000 or 27520/28-054.

Comments

The Victoria Hotel, which we stayed in during the 2008, would be an ideal accommodation this time around as well.

Despite the fact that I enjoyed our time in Sparta, I have deleted it from this preliminary itinerary. It, or other Peloponnesian sites such as Olympia or Monemvasia, could be added as replacements for stops on my proposed 2011 schedule.

J. To Athens In The Path Of Theseus

Introduction

If we do decide upon an itinerary that includes a Nafplion-to-Athens drive, we may want to set this up around the theme of the coast road Theseus took from his Peloponnesian homeland to Athens when going to meet his father.

Recommended Activities

Troezen, Theseus' reputed birth-place, is sixty kilometers east of Nafplion. Euripides chose it as the setting for his tragedy Hippolytus, which includes as its main characters the virgin son of Theseus and Phaedra (the wife of Theseus, sister of Ariadne and step-mother to Hippolytus). Troezen is a site of not only mythological but also historical importance, being a place to which Athenians escaped during the Persian invasion of 480 BCE.

We might start in Troezen in the morning, looking for the rock under which Theseus found the sword and pair of sandals, or wading through the sea to the islet of Sphairia where Aethra was said to have lain with Poseidon.

Theseus, of course, rejected sea passage to Athens after finding his legacy and instead followed the dangerous path along the Saronic Gulf, passing a sequence of six entrances to the Underworld, each of them guarded by a chthonic enemy in the form of a brigand or bully. We could stop at a number of these sites, which include Epidaurus and Eleusis.

Epidaurus was the first community through which Theseus passed. There he encountered and triumphed over Periphetes, a club-wielding strongman. At the neck of the isthmus, at Corinth, he slay the robber Siris the Pine-Bender and then raped his daughter. North of the peninsula, at Crommyon, he killed an enormous pig bred by the crone Phaea and fathered by Typhon. At Megara, he pushed the crafty old villain Sciron off the cliff face that is still named after him (we went through the Sciron tunnel on our way to Delphi in 2008). At Eleusis, Theseus defeated King Cercyon in a fatal wrestling match and then he cut Procrustes to the appropriate size on the plain of Eleusis.

K. Athens

Introduction

I like the idea of closing rather than beginning our trip with a stay in Athens, though we could also both start and end there, as we did in 2008. We should, in my opinion, combine organized group sight-seeing with some unscheduled time in which students might visit museums, do shopping, etc.

Recommended Activities

Athens was known as the "city of Theseus." Perhaps we might have a full day of touring in which the theme of In Search Of The Athens Of Theseus served as a loose focus for an introduction to Athens.

I love the idea following the Panathenaic Way up from the Kerameikos and the Dipylon Gate through the Agora to the Acropolis and the Erechtheum in which the ancient wooden statue of Athene Polias was re-clothed each year.

Commentary could combine general description with attention to the particularities of the Theseus story. Thus, we could learn not only about the Kerameikos as the cross-roads for the sacred processions to the Acropolis and Eleusis alike, but that the name of the cemetery derived by mythological tradition from Keramos, the son of Dionysus and Ariadne and the patron saint of potters. The walk through the Agora could highlight the trial of Socrates but also the rituals associated with the "bones of Theseus." The tour of the Acropolis could sing the glories of the Parthenon, but also point out the hidden Acropolis through spots associated with the Labyrinth legends, including, for example, the places where Aegeus may have leapt from the Acropolis and where Perdix was tossed by Daedalus; the southern slope where Theseus was said to have established the cult of Aphrodite Pandemos; and the Theatre of Dionysus, with its hidden Panagia Spiliotissa ("Our Lady of the Cave") grotto.

Likewise, we might look for mythic traces of the struggle between Theseus and the Amazons on the Areopagos, and might end our tour at Hadrian's Arch with its explicit demarcation between the Athens of Theseus and the Athens of Hadrian.

We should combine our tour of the Acropolis with a visit to the new Acropolis Museum.

A morning visit to the National Archaeological Museum worked well in 2008, and I would recommend setting that aside again as a beginning-of-the-day activity.

A tourist-targeted laser show that chronicles Athens's history through the story of the Acropolis can be viewed at night-time from the vantage point of the Pnyx (M, W, TH, SA, SU: 9 p.m.). The 45-minute English language presentation offers a bombastic account of the Acropolis from the time of its looting by the Persians through to the Periclean apogee, the Ottoman occupation, and beyond. Tickets (Euros 10) can be bought at the Hellenic Festival Office (39 Panepistimious; 210-928-2900) or at the entrance to the show (210-922-6210). I like the idea of doing this as a full group. The virtues of tacky tourist activities should not be underappreciated. This is even more true when visiting great world cities. Moreover, a recurring theme during our trip should be the complex relationships between past and present, and viewing such a presentation at the birth-spot of western democracy should spur conversation.

The First Cemetery of Athens might be worthy of a brief stop during our Athens tours. It includes the graves of those 40,000 Athenians who died of starvation during World War II but the tomb of Heinrich Schliemann as well.

Other Activities

Students should be provided with considerable time to explore Athens on their own. We might encourage students to get lost in the Anafiotika neighbourhood on the side of the Acropolis. There also are walking circuits designed in coordination with the 2004 Olympics. A 1+ hour walk that takes in many of the city's most historic sites is highlighted on pp. 129-131 of Lonely Planet.

The Byzantine and Christian Museum includes an impressive collection of art spanning the centuries from the 4th to the 19th (Euros 4; Tues. - Sun. 8:30 am - 3 pm; 22 Vasilissis Sofias Ave). The very-highly-regarded Benaki Museum is located close by.

Part of the Wall of Themistocles can be seen at the junction of Heracleidon and Erysichthonos streets.

The Foundation for the Hellenic World offers a virtual reality trip to the days of Ancient Greece (http://www.fhw.gr/ ; M, T, TH, F: 9 am - 4pm, W: 9am - 8 pm, Sun.: 11 am - 3 pm; Phone: 210 483 5300; Pireos 254, Tavros; about 2 kilometers from downtown; free). The centerpiece of the show is the Kivotas time machine, which offers a 3D show on giant screens that transports the visitor back the ancient Miletus and Olympia.

There are a number of Christian sites that might spur on further comparison with the earlier traditions. The Kaisariani Monastery east of the city is on the same spot as an ancient temple to Aphrodite. Greek brides who hope to become pregnant still travel here to drink from the spring waters that now flow from the open mouth of the goat statue at the monastery's entrance.

The 12th-century Panagia Gorgoepikoos (typically referred to as the Little Cathedral) was once the city's main church but now stands dwarfed by its successor. It is dedicated to the "Virgin Swift To Answer Prayers" and Agios Eleftherios ("The Saint Who Protects Women In Childbirth"). The bones of Agio Filothei, who died in 1589, are on display in a reliquary -- she is credited with ransoming Greek women held captive in Turkish harems. The 11th-century Kapnikarea stands on the edge of the Plaka and is dedicated to the Virgin of the Dormition. It is traditionally called the Church of the Princess in recognition of the role of the Byzantine Empress Irene in its founding.

In terms of cultural events, there is not just the Festival of Athens but there also is classical drama, opera, ballet and concerts during the summer months on Lykavittos Hill. Check both the Festival of Athens and the Athens International Jazz and Blues Festival for more information here. The Athens Center (48 Archimidous; 210/701-8603) frequently puts on free ancient and modern plays in June and July. The Folk Dancing Festival stages performances at the Philopappos Theater on Wednesday and Friday evenings.

Transportation

Guidebooks recommend the metro system as the easiest way to get around central Athens. Line 1 (green) has stops in the centre of Athens at Thissis, Monastiraki, Omonia and Viktorias. Line 2 (red; Ayios Antonios to Ayios Dhimitrios) has central stops at Omonia, Syndagma and Akropoli. Line 3 (blue; Monastiraki to the airport) stops at Syndagma.

City bus information can be found at http://www.oasa.gr/ . Riders need to validate their tickets when they get on the bus. A ticket for one bus or trolley trip costs Euro .45; a day ticket, which needs to be validated only once, costs Euros 2.90 and can be used on buses, trolleys, the tram and the subway. Bus tickets must be purchased from periptero kiosks.

Useful Links

Hellenic Festival: Information about the summer cultural series in Athens. See also Greek Tourism.

City Of Athens: May be available only in Greek.

Scoutway: Leads themed walks around ancient Athens accompanied by actors.

IV. TRAVEL AGENTS, TOURS AND TOUR GUIDES

Tours

Organized and guided bus tours are widely available. Some will pick you up at your hotel. Ask any travel agent or your hotel staff about the details.

If you want to hire a private guide, talk to your hotel desk, or contact the Association of Official Guides, 9a Apoloonas (Phone: 210/322-9705). Typical rates are approximately 100 Euros for a 5-hour tour.

Tourlite: This should, in my opinion, be our main provider of choice if we can work out a reasonably-priced package with them.
CHAT Tours: An experienced provider that offers a wide selection of bus tours led by articulate guides. A travel agent can book a CHAT tour. The company can be contacted directly at its office at 214 Bedford Rd., Toronto, M5R 2K9. Phone: 800-268-1180. In Athens, the CHAT office is at 9 Xenofontos, 10557 Athens (Phone: 210/323-0827).
Key Tours: Another well-respected Athens-based tour group.
Hop In Sightseeing: Another Athens tour company.

National Travel Agents

Windmills Travel: Has offices in Athens, Tinos and Mykonos.

Walking And Adventure Tours

Happy Walker: Organizes a number of walks in Crete.
Trekking Hellas: This Athen-based travel agency (Filellinon 7, on the 3rd floor of the arcade) arranges tours throughout Greece, ranging from walking in Athens (Euros 37) to bungee jumping in the Corinth Canal (Euros 50). Phone: 210-33-10-323.

Athens

Magic Travel: Its home office in Athens is at Nikis 33 (Phone: 2103237471).
Pacific Travels: Also Athens-based at Nikis 26 (Phone: 210-32-41007).
Athenian Days: Historian Andrew Farrington helps to organize tailor-made tours around Athens. (Phone: 210-689-3828). Price per group approximately Euros 50-70.

Mykonos

Delia Travel and the Mykonos Accommodation Centre: Sells boat tickets.

Crete

Iraklion travel agents arrange tours to almost any point on the island. We should seriously consider hiring a guide to show us around Knossos.

Christopher Travel (E-Mail -- christopher@her.forthnet.gr ; Fax 0032810226312; Telephone 0030 2810225931; Address 59, Ethnikis Antistaseos str., PO Box 1174, Heraklion Greece): This was our travel agent in Crete during the 2008 tour. Our guide was Lina Kogaki ( kogakilina@in.gr )
Skoutelis Travel: This is recommended as a helpful travel agent, with ferry information on-line. Located at 25 Avgoustou 24. Phone: 2810280808.

Hania

There are a number of travel agencies that arrange travel to and from Samaria Gorge. At least one of the basic guidebooks recommended signing up with one of these -- the extra expense guarantees seats for the return trip.

Tellus Travel: Located at Halidon 108. Sells tours and boat tickets. A recommended agency. Phone: 28120-91500.
El Greco: Located at Theotokopoulou.
Crete Travel: Located in the nearby village of Monoho. Phone: 28250-32-690. Has a great deal of helpful information on its web-site.

Nafplion

Staikos Tours is located by the harbour. Phone: 27520/27-950. It not only can help with travel arrangements, but has a fleet of three 50-seat coaches for touring the Peloponnese. E-mail: stakostravel@naf.forthnet.gr.

V. TRANSPORTATION INFORMATION

Ferries

General

Regular ferry tickets are usually best bought a day before departure.

One guide book recommends buying tickets from a travel agent ahead of time. In Athens, Galxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (210/322-5960; http://www.galaxytravel.gr ) is recommended, as is Alkyon Travel, 97 Akademias, near Kamigos Square (210/383-2545).

The most inexpensive class of ticket, deck class, is variously called triti or ikonomiki thesi. This gains access to most of the boat.

Hydrofoils, commonly known as dhelfinia or Flying Dolphins, are twice as fast and at least twice as expensive. They are sensitive to bad weather.

Comprehensive weekly lists of departures from Piraeus are produced by the Greek National Tourist Office. There are as accurate as possible.

The easiest route in to Athens from Piraeus is to take the Metro to central Athens, to either Monstiraki or Omonia.

Greek Ferries:
ANEK: 210 419 7420
Hellenic Seaways/ Hellas Flying Dolphins: 210 419 9000
Minoan Lines:210 414 5700
Blue Star Ferries: 210 891 9800
LANE Lines: 210 427 4011
NEL Lines:

Cyclades

Ferries for the Cyclades leave not only from Piraeus but also from Rafina on the east coast of Attica.

Paros and Syros are two of the travel hubs of the Cyclades.

Crete

Crete has ports at Iraklio, Souda (for Hania), Rethymnon, Agios Nikolaus, Sitia and Kissamos.

The Kissamos to Gythio ferry is offered 2 times weekly by ANEN Lines (Euros 22.10; 7 hours), travelling via Kythira and Antikythira. Check with Rozakis Travel in Gythio (27330 22207); rosakigy@otenet.gr . In Kissamoss, you can buy tickets from Horeftakis Tours (28220 23250) and from the ANEN Office (28220 22009).

Hania's main port is at Souda, approximately 7 kilometers southeast of the city. There are frequent buses (Euro .90). Taxi fare is about Euros 8.

ANEK has a daily boat from Hania to Piraeus (Euros 21.90; 9 hours). It departs from Hania at 8 pm.

A company that operates high-speed catamarans, Hellas Flying Dolphins (http://www.hellenicseaways.gr/; Plateia 1866 14), has introduced service between Piraeus and Hania. The one-way 41 Euro trip lasts 5 hours and arrives back in Piraeus at 1:15 am. It leaves Hania at 9 pm.

There is regular service provided by Minoan Lines ferry between Iraklio and Piraeus (seven hours; Euros 29). This departs from Iraklio at 10 p.m. and is described as more modern than the ANEK rivals.

Buses

General

Save your ticket on city buses or you may be subject to a fine from an inspector. In Athens and other large cities, a bus ticket must be purchased before and validated after boarding. Kiosks usually offer bus tickets as well as schedules.

KTEL: 250/512-4910.

Crete

Buses run almost hourly between Iraklion and Hania.

V. INSTRUCTOR INFORMATION

Teachers qualify for the International Teacher Identity Card (ITIC). The cost is $CAN 16 and the cards gains free entry to state-run museums and sites.

We should have printed itineraries and information sheets for each place we visit.

We should have a flashlight if we decide to explore one or more caves (including the cistern at Myceneae).

We could have some recommended activities in which students were given the choice of 1) participating with the group, 2) completing the activities individually or with a partner, or 3) opting out of the activity altogether.

In an emergency, call an ambulance (166), the nearest hospital (106), or the tourist police (171).

The Canadian Embassy in Greece is located at Genadiou 4 (210-727-3400).

Smaller archaeological sites generally close for a long lunch and siesta, even when the official schedule announces otherwise.

Greece is 10 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time.

Accommodation owners may add a 10% surcharge for a stay of less than three nights, though this is not mandatory. A required charge of 20% is levied if an extra bed is put into a room.

VI. STUDENT INFORMATION

International Student Identity Cards : Students should strongly consider acquiring an International Student Identity Card (ISIC). This is the most widely recognized form of student and ID and qualifies the holder to half-price admission to museums and ancient sites, trains, tickets for many artistic events and theatrical performances, and for discounts at some budget hotels and hostels. Some travel agencies in Athens are licensed to issue ISIC cards. To acquire a card, you must show documents proving that you are a student, provide a passport photo, and pay Euros 10. They are only valid for under 26s. The card is also available for $22 from STA Travel ( http://www.statravel.com/ ) , the biggest student travel agency in the world.

It's good to let your credit card company know that you are traveling abroad before you depart.

Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money reimbursed if you have to back out of a trip or if you have to return home early.

You will need to wear "appropriate" clothing to gain access and/or to show respect when visiting churches, monasteries and convents. Shorts are not appropriate. Skirts or dresses should reach down below the knees. Women should also have their arms and shoulders covered. Men should wear long trousers.

Greece still remains in some ways a very patriarchal society. Some cafes and even some restaurants are at least unofficially males-only turf and the locals may not appreciate foreign women entering such places.

Bring medications in their original, clearly-labeled containers. Pack these in your carry-on luggage. Also bring along copies of your prescription in case your lose your medication. A signed and dated letter from your doctor describing your medications, including generic names, is not mandatory but could be helpful.

Greek drug laws are the strictest in Europe. The courts make no distinction between possession and dealing, and even a small amount of marijuana can lead to jail time.

In restaurants, a service charge is normally included in the bill. While a tip is not required, a 5% gratuity is customary.

Hotel chambermaids are often tipped a Euro per person a night.

All public phones use OTE phonecards, known as telekarta. These cards are widely available at newsstands or at the airport's OTE office in such denominations as Euros 3, Euros 6 and Euros 9. The higher the cost, the lower the proportionate unit of time cost.

Do not make any long-distance calls from hotels unless you have a telephone credit card from a major long-distance provider.

Having an unlocked cell phone allows you to install a cheap, prepaid SIM card (found at a local retailer) in your destination country.

Petty theft is less common in Greece than in some other European nations. Central Athens, including the metro system and the crowded streets around Omonia, is probably the most likely place to be pickpocketed. I would strongly recommend a money belt, not because the risk of theft is high but because with a money belt it is lowered that much more dramatically.

You are required to carry suitable ID on you at all times -- either a passport or driver's license. Your passport must be valid for 3 months after your arrival date.

Check whether your extra medical coverage pays benefits as treatment proceeds or only after the return home, whether there is a 24-hour medical emergency number, and how much the deductible is.

You should have regular access to ATMs when we are in Greece. If your PIN includes letters, be sure that you know their numerical equivalent, as Greek ATMs do not have letters.

Make sure you bring with you sturdy but comfortable shoes; footwear for swimming; sunglasses; a few photos of your family, home and region; a camera.

Photography is not permitted inside churches.