TO GREECE IN SEARCH OF TRAGIC MEANING FIELD SCHOOL PROPOSAL
North Island College
(Vancouver Island, British Columbia)Proposed Date:
May 2027Approximate Length: 27 days in total (including 2 travel days from and to the Comox Valley
Instructors: Erin McConomy and Dan Hinman-Smith
Number of Students: 20+
The Theme
To Greece In Search Of Tragic Meaning would involve a study tour of approximately 25 days in which we visited various archaeological sites, museums, and other locations associated with the myths referenced in approximately ten different fifth-century BCE tragedies written by Euripides, Sophocles, and Aeschylus. A central feature of the Field School would be in-trip reading and discussion of each of the selected plays at a particularly appropriate spot.
The Basics
The Field School would have two instructors and nine credits, with Erin teaching a second-year English course, and me teaching HIS 205 (Travels In Time) and either LIB 210 (Topics In World Civilization) or LIB 250 (Wisdom Of The Ancients). These three courses would be fit together in an interdisciplinary manner and would offer students an integrated educational experience.
The goal would be to aim for 20+ students. One idea I very much like is having Field School as an NIC/Comox Valley Elder College collaboration with an equal number of students from each group. I love the idea of inter-generational learning in general and think it could be particularly powerful given the theme of the Field School. Moreover, such a collaboration would dramatically increase the viability of the Field School with an available pool of interested Elder College students. The Elder College students would not be required to register for the courses or to complete the assignments bout would be expected to participate in the seminars and all other Field School activities.
The tour would be very much organized around the chosen tragedies. However, we do not want to be moving too quickly nor to ignore interesting historic sites close to our different bases. Those additional sites will be integrated into our travels, with an emphasis on how they fit into the mythscape of Ancient Greece.
We would have one individual from our Greek partner on the ground who would accompany us throughout our travels. We might also need a local guide for some of the museum and archaeological site visits, and this would be arranged in consultation with our Greek partner.
An Explanation About The Proposed Itinerary
The itinerary below is offered as a first draft rather than as a final itinerary. That schedule may look significantly different from what is outlined here based on consultation with our Greek travel experts. But I have put considerable thought into the itinerary and thought it best to begin with suggested specifics rather than leaving things at the conceptual level.
A Draft Itinerary
Day 1: Travel from Comox Valley to Greece
Day 2: Arrival In Greece and Recovery from Travel -- Vravrona as a Possible Hotel Site
Itinerary:
Night-time Preparation Reading of Euripides, Iphigenia In Aulis (405 BCE)
Thoughts:
There is a 10-hour time difference between the Comox Valley and Greece. I like the idea of getting a hotel outside of Athens and having no scheduled activities for the day of arrival. I have listed Vravrona as a possibility because it is both relatively close to the airport and very close to the Temple of Artemis at Brauron, which I have placed as the first stop on our itinerary for Day 3.
Day 3: Travel From Vravrona to Thebes
Itinerary:
Leave Vravrona in the a.m.
First Stop: Brauron
a) Visit the ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Brauron
b) Visit the Archaeological Museum at Brauron
Second Stop: Temple of Artemis at Aulis
a) Discuss Euripides, Iphigenia In Aulis by the ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Aulis
Possible Third Stop: Archaeological Site at Rhamnous
Thoughts:
Brauron is a wonderful site in and of itself and has a very interesting museum as well. I have also chosen it because, by tradition, it is connected to myths associated with Iphigenia and indeed the reputed "Tomb of Iphigenia" is located here. This would provide the opportunity to talk about the stories connecting Iphigenia to Tauris, including that presented by Euripides, and of her escape with the idol of Artemis back to Brauron.
The ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Aulis is one of those lesser-visited sites that I love. It's just off the national highway and almost literally in the shadow of a large cement factory. A wonderful place for our first seminar. The site is gated and locked and needs an attendant for entry.
Rhamnous is only tangentially connected to the theme of the Search For Tragic Meaning. The Temple of Nemesis there is connected to the Trojan War and includes a representation of Clytemnestra, while the watchtower function of this fortress in the Classical Era reminds me of the opening scene of Aeschylus' Agamemnon. But I have included it in the itinerary more because I consider it to be a wonderful off-the-beaten-track site that seems to fit in quite well with this day's travel schedule. But I could see it being eliminated if two stops seemed fully sufficient for a travel day.
Useful Links:
Topos Text -- Aulis:
Vravron -- Archaeological Sites:
Archaeological Museum Of Brauron -- Hellenic Ministry Of Culture: Ticket and hours information.
Day 3-5: Thebes
Itinerary:
Day 3: Settle into Thebes
a)
Night-time Preparation Reading of Sophocles, Antigone (c. 442-440 BCE)Day 4: Thebes
a) Morning Mythic Tour of Thebes
b) Discuss Sophocles, Antigone beside or within the Kadmeion or by one of the chamber tombs.
c) Afternoon Tour of Thebes Archaeological Museum
d) Night-time Preparation Reading of Euripides, The Bacchae (c. 407 BCE)
Day 5: Thebes
a) Short Hike from Thebes to Pine Forest on Mount Cithaeron
b) Discuss Euripides, The Bacchae underneath a pine tree.
c) Free Afternoon
Thoughts:
There is probably no single other city in all of Greece that is so connected to the mythic tradition or to the surviving dramatic literature from the fifth century. Thebes itself is not an impressive place in regards to surviving archaeological remains (see, for example, the Spring of Dirce), but I find that to be a spur rather than a block to the imagination.
I myself am not familiar with the mythic landscape of Thebes. But I would love for us to learn from a knowledgeable local guide who both told of the myths and connected those stories to particular contemporary sites both within and outside of the municipality (egs. "Here is where the cow that Cadmus was following laid down"; "Here, by tradition is the lair of the Sphinx"; "Here, it is said, Acteon stumbled upon Artemis bathing"; "Here is where Oedipus is said to have been exposed on the hillside").
I would love to discuss The Bacchae on an at least relatively shaded spot on Mount Cithaeron. It may be possible to easily reach such a spot from Thebes itself. I do not know that, though, and do not want the discussion to be preceded by an intense hike. Depending on the circumstances, bus transportation may be preferable here. It that is the case, this discussion could be moved to the Day 6 travel day and Day 5 become a Free Day.
Useful Links:
Archaeological Area Of The Mycenaean Palace Of Thebes 'Kadmeio':
Archaeological Museum Of Thebes:
Archaeological Museum Of Thebes -- Latsis Foundation:
Thebes -- The Place Of The Myths:
Day 6: Travel from Thebes to Mount Pelion
Leave Thebes in the a.m.
Days 6-8: Mount Pelion (Portaria?)
Itinerary:
Day 6: Settle into Portaria
Day 7: Portaria
a) Walk Centaur's Path and explore mythic Portaria, including the Cave of Jason.
b) Free Afternoon
Day 8: Travel from Portana to Ano Lechonia
a) Take the Pelion Railway (departs Ano Lechnonia at 10:00 am and returns at 4:30 pm.
b) Night-time Preparation Reading of Euripides, Andromache (430-424 BCE)
Thoughts:
Mount Pelion is very much folded into the Greek mythic landscape through such characters as Jason, Achilles, and Chiron, but does not figure prominently within the fifth-century tragedies. I have not visited Mount Pelion yet myself, but it seems like such a magical place with many interesting walking trails.
I am not committed to Portaria as a base, but it seemed like one logical choice based upon on-line research. I will ask for guidance from our Greek partner here.
The narrow-gauge Pelion Railway is scheduled to run on Saturdays and Sundays in May. The Mount Pelion itinerary can be adjusted to accommodate rail availability. A free day or an alternate activity should be fit into the schedule if the Pelion Railway run does not fit our schedule.
Useful Links:
Discover Mt. Pelion:
Visit Portaria:
Pelion, Matt Barrett's Greece Travel:
About Greek Myths About Pelion, Pelion Culture:
Day 9: Travel from Mount Pelion to Delphi
Itinerary:
Leave Mount Pelion in the a.m.
First Stop: Archaeological Museum of Volos
Possible Second Stop: Mycenaean Palace at Dimini
Final Stop: In the area of the ancient temple to Thetis called the Thetidium (in today's Thessaly in the hills between the villages of Thetidio and Scotussa Farsala).
a) Discuss Euripides, Andromache
Thoughts:
Euripides' play opens with Hector's widow Andromache at the shrine of the goddess Thetis in Thessaly. Her mythic son Achilles is associated with the modern-day city of Farsala (or Pharsalos), though historians posit the existence an earlier Pharsalos to the west in the form of a place identified as Palaepharsalus. Although the precise location of the Thetidium has not been identified, archaeologists and locals have narrowed down the site to a small radius. Stopping on our way to Delphi in a scenic place within the radius and discussing Andromache should be a powerful experience.
Useful Links:
Thetideion -- Topos Text:
Day 9-12: Delphi
Itinerary:
Day 9: Settle into Delphi
Day 10: Delphi
a) Free Day
b) Night-time Preparation Reading of Sophocles, Oedipus Rex (429 BCE)
Day 11: Delphi
a) Visit both lower and upper archaeological sites at Delphi, including sanctuary of Athena, Temple of Apollo, and the Stadium of Delphi
b) Discuss Sophocles, Oedipus Rex in the ancient theatre at Delphi in front of the Temple of Apollo
c) Guided tour of Museum of Delphi
Day 12:
a) Optional early-morning hike up Mount Parnassus to the Corycian Cave.
Thoughts:
The hike to the Corcyian Cave is both spectacular and extremely demanding. If the Field School end up with an NIC/Elder College collaboration, there will be few retirees who will be prepared for this ascent. It definitely should be an optional activity, and those who choose to remain in Delphi itself will have a free day. A very-early-morning start (7:00 am?) is recommended for participants.
Useful Links:
Archaeological Museum Of Delphi -- Latsis Foundation:
Ancient Paths Of Delphi -- Hiking To The Corycian Cave:
Day 13: Travel from Delphi to Stavros, Ithaca via Patras
Itinerary:
Leave Delphi in the a.m.
Thoughts:
I have chosen to include Ithaca within the itinerary because I consider the island to be such a treasure to visit and because The Odyssey, while not a fifth-century tragedy, can be integrated into the curriculum without any sense of disruption.
I have picked Stavros as a base both because it is regarded as the traditional hometown of Odysseus and because I find it to be a place in which the mythic connections to the past are so much more vibrant that is the case with Vathy. I appreciate that there is limited accommodation in Stavros, but it is not important that we all be housed in the same building.
Day 13-16: Ithaca
Itinerary:
Day 13: Settle into Stavros
Day 14: Stavros
a) Guided and Recommended walking trails around Stavros
b) Discuss Books 1-12 of Homer's The Odyssey (c. 750 CE) in the central square of Stavros.
Day 15: Ithaca
a) Mythic Ithaca Tour including Archaeological Museum of Stavros, Field of Laertes, Cave of the Nymphs, and Arethousa Krini
Day 16: Stasvros
a) Late afternoon discussion of Book 13-24 of The Odyssey at Homer's School.
Thoughts:
I spent a week on Ithaca in 2016 and devoted much of my time there to exploring ancient footpaths. I would like to see that integrated into our time on the island. The path to the Arethousa Spring is both extraordinary and slightly harrowing (not exactly a cliff-side walk but still with steep drop-offs down to the water. I would love to incorporate that into our itinerary but appreciate that that may best be framed as an optional activity. I also appreciate that the very narrow roads of Ithaca present challenges for group transportation.
Useful Links:
Walking Tracks Around Ithaca Greece:
Day 17: Travel from Ithaca to Olympia
Thoughts:
There are no plays within the curriculum that connect to Olympia and I do not consider it to be a mandatory part of the itinerary. However, it seems to offer a logical intermediate stop on the long travel from Ithaca to the southern Peloponnese and think an overnight stay there makes considerable sense.
Day 18: Travel from Olympia to Nafplion
Itinerary:
Guided Tour of the Archaeological Site at Olympia and the Olympia Archaeological Museum in the a.m.
Travel from Olympia to Nafplion
Useful Links:
Archaeological Museum Of Olympia -- Latsis Foundation:
Day 18-20: Nafplion
Itinerary:
Day 18: Settle into Nafplion
a) Night-time Preparation Reading of Aeschylus, Agamemnon (458 CE)
Day 19: Nafplion
a) Guided Morning Tour of Mycenae and the Archaeological Museum of Mycenae
b) Discuss Aeschylus, Agamemnon inside the "Tomb of Clytemnestra"
c) Free Afternoon in Nafplion
d) Night-time Preparation Reading of Euripides, Hippolytus (428 BCE)
Day 20: Nafplion:
a) Tour of Epidaurus and Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus
b) Visit Troezen
c) Discuss Euripides, Hippolytus within the Sanctuary of Hippolytus at Troezen
d) Night-time Preparation Reading of Euripides, Medea (431 BCE)
Thoughts:
I have chosen Nafplion as a base for exploring the Peloponnese because it's such a wonderful seaside city with both easy access to historic sites on the peninsula and because it has its own attractions available for students to explore on their own time. I also like the idea of remaining rooted in place rather than moving every day or two. However, I would be very open to alternative suggestions here.
Useful Links:
Mycenae -- Latsis Foundation:
Aikaterini-Iliana Rassia, "The Hero-Cult Of Hippolytus In Troezen," Logeion (2021): 108-127.
Day 21: Travel from Nafplion to Salamis
Itinerary:
Leave Nafplion in the a.m.
First Stop: The Archaeological Site at Perachora
a) Discuss Euripides, Medea at the "tombs" of the sons of Medea at the Heraion of Perachora
Possible Second Stop: Archaeological Museum of Salamis
Thoughts:
The Heraion of Perachora is not an easy place to access. But it seems like such an appropriate place to discuss Medea and a very romantic place in its own right. It seems as if it would fit well into a travel day here.
Useful Links:
Heraion Of Perachora -- Wikipedia:
Day 21-23: Salamis
Itinerary:
Day 21: Settle into Salamis
Day 22: Salamis
a) Free Day
b) Night-time Preparation Reading of Sophocles, Ajax (c. 442 BCE)
Day 23:
a) Visit Cave of Euripides in Peresteria
b) Discuss Sophocles, Ajax in the the ruins of the "Palace of Ajax" at Kanakia
Thoughts:
Archaeologists have been excavating at Kanakia since 2006. Although I am sceptical about the historical existence of Ajax and questions the temptation to identify Mycenaean ruins at Pylos as the "Palace of Nestor" or those on Salamis as the "Palace of Ajax", this seems to be a very resonant place at which to discuss Sophocles' play.
Ideally, I prefer accommodation on the southwest coast, which is where Kanakia is located.
I do not know how easy it is to access the "Cave of Euripides", but do know that it is relatively close to Kanakia.
Useful Links:
Kanakia Mycenaean Palace -- Topos Text:
Day 24: Travel from Salamis to Athens
Itinerary:
Leave Salamis in the a.m.
Possible Stop: Archaeological Site at Eleusis
Useful Links:
.
Day 24-26: Athens
Itinerary:
Day 24: Settle into Athens
Day 25: Athens
a) Morning Unguided Tour of National Archaeological Museum
b) Free Afternoon
c) Night-time Reading of Euripides, Trojan Women (415 BCE)
Day 26: Athens
a) Guided Tour of Acropolis Museum
b) Unguided Visit to Acropolis
c) Discuss Euripides, Trojan Women in the Theatre of Dionysus
Thoughts:
Ideally, our hotel would be located within walking distance of either or both of the National Archaeological Museum and the Acropolis. In that case, we would not need bus transportation during our time in Athens.
Useful Links:
National Archaeological Museum -- Latsis Foundation:
Acropolis Museum -- Latsis Foundation:
Day 27: Travel from Athens to Comox Valley
